Posts Tagged ‘Education’

I Love French Wine and Food – A White Sancerre

December 30th, 2009

If you are looking for fine French wine and food, you should consider the Loire Valley region of central France. You may find a bargain, and I hope that you’ll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a white Sancerre wine based on the Sauvignon Blanc grape coming from the eastern part of the Loire Valley.

The Loire is France’s longest river. Among eleven France’s wine-growing regions the Loire Valley number three in total vineyard acreage. This region is subdivided into four sections going from west to east: Nantais, Anjou-Saumur, Touraine, and Central Vineyards, the home of the wine that’s reviewed below. This region’s major white grape is Sauvignon Blanc and major red grape is Pinot Noir.

Bourges is a town of over seventy thousand people that’s almost in the center of France. It’s an old style market town with a high and mighty Cathedral, the Thirteenth Century Cathedrale St-Etienne that is really something to see. It is a World Heritage Site. Make sure not to miss the Fifteenth Century Palais Jacques-Coeur (Palace) that was used as a model for several New York City Fifth Avenue mansions. For natural beauty visit the marshes of the Voiselle and Yevre rivers.

Before reviewing the Loire wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are a few suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start with Salade de Faisan (Pheasant Salad). For your second course savor Noisette de Biche (Deer Medallions). And as dessert indulge yourself with Poire Rotie au Beurre (Pear Roasted in Butter).

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed Marnier-LaPostolle Chateau de Sancerre 2003 12.5% alcohol about $19

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. Tasting Note: Straw yellow color; grapefruit and mineral notes on the note; clean and refreshing citrus/grapefruit and herbal flavors. Serving Suggestion: Shellfish; goat’s cheese dishes; veggie dishes. And now for my review.

My first meal consisted of poached salmon-colored trout in red pepper (the vegetable, not the spice) sauce with boiled rice. The wine tasted like a Chablis, full of lemon and steel with some herbal notes. When I tried it with a salad composed of Clementines, baby spinach, pear, and mango accompanied by a sweet mustard dressing the Sancerre became more acidic while retaining its flintiness. It took on floral aspects when faced with home-made (my grapes, someone else’s) jelly.

The second meal was a purchased organic spinach pizza. The wine was floral, round, and even a bit sweet. It was quite pleasant. With an apple-rhubarb tart the Sancerre was nicely acidic and feathery.

The third pairing involved a lightly sauteed chicken breast, boiled rice, and a spicy tomato-based Turkish salad. It was round, light, and quite long. Then I added a Tunisian hot pepper sauce (harissa) to the bland meat. Interestingly enough the Sancerre became fruitier and somewhat shorter.

Usually I finish the bottle with two cheese. In this case I went to a cheese-less lasagna made with whole wheat noodles, tomato sauce, peas, and ground chicken. The wine was very fruity and quite round. Its refreshing acidity did a fine job of cutting the grease.

One of the classic wine and cheese pairings taught in schools and verified in practice is Sancerre and goat’s milk cheese, preferably Crottin de Chavignol coming from the same area as the wine.

Final verdict. This is a fine wine. I really like Sancerre but find it somewhat overpriced. I am always ready to try another Sancerre, looking for better value.

Levi Reiss authored or co-authored ten computers and Internet books, but prefers drinking fine German, Italian, or other wine with the right foods and people. He teaches computers at an Ontario French-language community college. His global wine website www.theworldwidewine.com features a weekly review of $10 wines and new sections writing about and tasting organic and kosher wines. Visit his Italian travel website www.travelitalytravel.com.
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I Love French Wine and Food – A Rhone Valley Rose

December 30th, 2009

Given the terrible Artic temperatures in our part of the world, I figured why not review a well-known rose wine from the Rhone Valley region of southeastern France. This beautiful area ranks second in acreage of France’s eleven wine-growing regions. The region runs some 200 kilometers (125) miles along the Rhone River. The northern part is really narrow. Its major white variety is Viognier and major red grape variety is Syrah. This area produces some of the best red wines in all France, and if you ask partisans some of the world’s best red wines. But the north produces only about 5% of the total Rhone Valley production. Wine in the southern Rhone Valley tends to be blended. For example, the wine reviewed below comes from three different grapes.

Tavel is a village of about 1500 people located near some great vineyards, not far from the cities of Avignon and Nimes, and an hour’s drive from the Mediterranean. But you don’t have to leave the village for interesting sights. Sights in the old town center include a Tenth Century Chapel (Saint-Ferreol), the village church and fountain, and the Chemin de la Condamine. There’s a vineyard route and you’re not far from the largest sundial in Europe. Just a bit of wine trivia; Tavel is the one French wine appellation that’s allowed to make only rose wine.

Before reviewing the Cotes du Rhone rose wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are a few suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start with Soupe aux Truffes Noires (Black Truffle Soup). For your second course savor Foie de Veau a la Lyonnaise (Veal Liver and Onions). And as dessert indulge yourself with Tarte aux Pralines (Praline Tart).

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed Perrin & Fils Tavel Rose 2006 14% about $16.50

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. Tavel produces some of the richest, yet driest roses on the market. They work beautifully as a sipper and are quite adaptable to a variety of foods such as grilled chicken, sea-food salads, bouillabaisse or pork tenderloin. The Perrin 2006 vintage is a blend of 80% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre, and 10% Cinsault. And now for our review.

My first meal was centered on a middle-eastern dish known as kube, slow cooked ground meat placed in crushed bulgar jackets. This is rose. It was a great blend of acidity with a touch of sweetness. The wine lingered. It sort of bounced off the peppery sauce. When sipped on its own the Tavel was feathery. I felt it was something of an introduction to ambrosia.

My next meal involved a slow-cooked chicken leg with the skin on with a sauce made from soy sauce, garlic, cumin, and onion. The chicken was accompanied by potato patties. The wine was fruity with good acidity. It was light and yet oh so present. For dessert I had a French chocolate pie with a great flaky (lots of butter) crust. The rose managed to hold its own against the somewhat excessive sugar.

The final meal was an omelet perked up by anchovies and capers. The wine was long and fruity, undisturbed by the excessive salt. It became subtler when facing a fresh, acidic tomato.

The first cheese was an Emmenthaler (Swiss). The wine remained round and forceful, but something was lost. The second cheese was a rather gamy goat’s milk cheese from Poitou in central-western France. The cheese cut the wine.

Final verdict. Tavel is known as a fine rose wine. I was not the least bit disappointed. I’ll be pleased to buy it again. But if I’m not doing a review, I won’t bother trying it with any old available cheese.

Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten computer and Internet books, but definitely prefers drinking fine French, German, or other wine. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario French-language community college. His global wine website www.theworldwidewine.com features a weekly review of $10 wines and new sections writing about and tasting organic and kosher wines. Visit his Italian wine website www.theitalianwineconnection.com .
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I Love French Wine and Food – A Loire Valley Bourgueil

December 29th, 2009

If you are in the market for fine French wine and food, why not consider the Loire Valley region of central France? You may find a bargain, and I hope that you?ll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour where we review a red Bourgueil wine based on Cabernet Franc with perhaps a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon coming from western Touraine in the center of the Loire Valley.

The Loire Valley ranks third in total acreage devoted to vineyards among France’s eleven wine-growing regions. At over six hundred miles (one thousand kilometers) the Loire is France’s longest river. In encompasses several regions which we list going from west to east. First is the Nantais region whose major grape is the white Muscadet. Then comes Anjou-Saumur whose most important grapes are the white Chenin Blanc and the red Cabernet Franc. In Touraine the primary white grapes are Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc and whose primary red grape is Cabernet Franc. Finally comes the Central Vineyards whose major white grape is Sauvignon Blanc and whose major red grape is Pinot Noir. Sooner or later we will review at least one wine from each of these regions.

Bourgueil is a market town surrounded by caves and vineyards. Go north a bit to the Cave Touristique de la Dive Bouteille (Tourist’s Shady Bottle Cave) that’s full of local wines. Don’t miss the Benedictine Abbaye de Bourgueil (Bourgueil Abbey) where according to legend the first Cabernet Franc vine was planted in 1089. Stop by its Musee des Arts et Traditions Populaires (Art and Folk Traditions Museum). Then proceed about 12 miles (19 kilometers) north to the Chateau de Langeais, a great mid-Fifteenth Century Loire Castle.

Before reviewing the Loire wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are a few suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start with Quiche aux Rillettes (Quiche with Coarse Pork Pate). For your second course savor Beuchelle, Tourte aux Rognons (Sweetbreads and Kidney Pie). And as dessert indulge yourself with Nougat de Tours (Tours Nougat).

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed Yannick Amirault Le Grand Clos Bourgueil 2004 13.0% alcohol about $17

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. Yannick Amirault is said to be one of the best producers in Loire Valley’s Bourgueil AC. In fact, French publication Classement (2005) called him the best in the region, commenting in the last ten years, the wines of this domaine have appeared as the most complex and the most consistent of the appellations Bourgueil and St. Nicholas de Bourgueil. The wines of the domaine are characterized by body, cleanness, charm, and in a great vintage, by aristocracy. And now for my review.

My first meal consisted of commercially prepared barbecued beef ribs in a sweet sauce accompanied by rice and Turkish Salad. The wine was round and black fruits predominated. The acidity had no trouble cutting the grease. This wine was full but short.

The second meal was whole-wheat spaghetti with a commercial tomato spaghetti sauce that I boosted with a medley of garlic, red pepper, multiple mushrooms, olive oil, anchovies, capers, Greek olives, and Parmesan cheese. The Bourgueil was mouth filling, round, and dark. I don’t remember the last timeI enjoyed pasta and wine so much.

The final pairing involved breaded fried chicken cutlets, potato patties, and Caponata, a purchased Italian tomato, pepper, onion, and eggplant salad. The wine was dark and round yet it didn’t overwhelm the chicken, perhaps because it was fried. It was a good accompaniment to the fruity eggplant salad. I was sorry that I didn’t have any fruit-juice candy. The wine was a no-go with pistachio nougat candy.

The first cheese pairing was with a German Emmenthaler (Swiss) Cheese. The wine retained its acidity and flavor, tasting of tobacco and black cherries. Then I tried a goat’s milk cheese called Poitou Charente from central western France. The wine was round and relatively powerful.

Final verdict. I was happy with this wine and would buy it again, especially if I could get it at a better price but there are so many Loire Valley wines to taste, not to mention the other wine regions of France.

Levi Reiss has authored ten computer and Internet books, but to tell the truth, he would really rather just drink fine French, German, or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario French-language community college. His global wine website www.theworldwidewine.com features a weekly review of $10 wines. Visit his Italian wine website www.theitalianwineconnection.com .
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I Love German Wine and Food – A Franconian Silvaner Revisited

December 29th, 2009

If you are in the mood for fine German wine and food, you should consider the Franconia region of southeastern Germany. You may find a bargain, and I hope that you’ll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a local Silvaner white wine. I’ll let you in on a secret. A year and a half ago I reviewed a previous vintage of this wine. I liked it so much that I wanted to review it again. The rest of the article hasn’t changed much but the review was completely rewritten from scratch. Let’s see what a difference two years makes.

Franconia is bordered on the north by the Main River and by the Danube on the south. It is named for a Germanic tribe known as the Franks, who also gave their name to France. After centuries of independence, the Congress of Vienna in 1814-1815 made Franconia part of Bavaria in southern Germany.

Of the thirteen German wine regions, Franconia ranks number six in both acreage and total wine production. Unlike many other German wine regions, here the Riesling grape is not a major player. More than 85% of Franconian wine is white. The main grape varieties are Mueller-Thurgau, a German hybrid, that makes up almost half the local production of white wine and Silvaner, a grape also grown elsewhere in Germany, and in Austria, Switzerland, and Alsace, France. Many experts feel that the best Silvaner wines are grown in Franconia. About 40% of the region’s wine is middle-quality QbA wine, and almost 60% is the higher quality QmP wine. Only about 0.5% of Franconian wine is table wine.

Do you like seeing the past? The Middle Ages trade route known as the Romantic Road with its castles and medieval churches, towns, and villages passes through Franconia. The city of Wuerzburg forms the northernmost point of the Romantic Road. It is a medieval town jam packed with sites dating back several hundred years. For example, make sure to see the Alte Mainbruecke (Old Main Bridge), the Dom St. Kilian a Romanesque cathedral, Festung Marienberg (Marienberg Fortress) with the Marienkirche (Church of the Virgin Mary, this one dates back to approximately the year 700), the Mainfraenkisches Museum (Main-Franconian Museum), and the Residenz where the local prince-bishops lived. You may also want to see the Buergerspital (Almshouse) associated with the wine that we review below.

Before reviewing the Franconian wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are a few suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start off with a Frankische Bratwurst (Franconian Roasted Sausage). For your second course enjoy Schuefela (Pork Shoulder with Potato Dumpling). As a dessert indulge yourself with ApfelStruedel (Apple Strudel).

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed Buergerspital Wuerzburg Silvaner Kabinett Trocken 2004 10.6% alcohol about $16.50

We’ll start by quoting the marketing materials. The Franken region wines are unique for two reasons. First, their principal grape is Silvaner; and second, they use an unusual bottle known as the bocksbeutel (similar in shape to the Mateus Rose vessel). In Franken, Silvaner achieves its finest expression. The aromas are full of floral, pear, apple, and mineral notes. Medium to full-bodied, its racy acidity gives it tremendous verve. Pair with freshwater fish. And now for my review. (By the way, I did this review without noting my comments in the previous review.)

I started by sipping this wine. It was somewhat ethereal, mineral, and refreshingly acidic. The first meal involved fried chicken breast (hot off the skillet) and delicatessen bought potato pancakes. This wine was palate cleansing and appely. Some slices of fresh red pepper seemed to denature the wine while giving it a touch of lemon.

Then I went to a chicken thigh casserole cooked with sliced potatoes, sweet potatoes, and onions in a spicy tomato sauce. The acidity cut the grease and the wine was appley and moderately long.

I then went to an Italian sausage pizza (not home made). The Silvaner was refreshing and nicely acidic. It balanced the spices well. As I kept drinking an apple taste developed. A week later I bought a Pepperoni pizza. The wine seemed more powerful than previously. It was palate cleansing, really cutting the grease.

And now for the cheeses. First I tried a genuine Italian Mozzarella de Bufala (water buffalo Mozzarella). While this wine was round and acidic, the cheese was able to chop it down somewhat. I guess you just don’t mess with water buffalo. The final cheese was a French Morbier made in two layers, once upon a time a morning milk layer and an evening milk layer. Frankly, I’m not enough of a cheese lover to tell the difference. Anyway this cheese was really starting to smell. It was able to gut the wine, however, it wasn’t bad on its own.

Final verdict. I bought this wine twice and have yet to go a second round with many other wines that I liked as well. Part of the reason that I repeated this tasting was my surprise that a Silvaner could be so good. I am not planning to go a third round but am planning to taste another Silvaner, albeit in a more modest price range.

Over the years Levi Reiss has authored ten computer and Internet books, and yet he prefers fine Italian, German, or other wine, accompanied by the right foods and good company. He loves teaching a variety of computer classes at an Ontario French-language community college. His global wine website www.theworldwidewine.com features a weekly review of $10 wines. Visit his wine, nutrition, and health website www.wineinyourdiet.com .
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I Love German Wine and Food – A Riesling Kabinett From Nahe

December 29th, 2009

If you are hankering for fine German wine and food, you should really consider the Nahe region of southwestern Germany. You might find a bargain, and I hope that you’ll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a local Riesling Kabinett, a wine made from grapes that aren’t fully ripened.

The Nahe wine region is a relatively small area that runs along the Nahe River, a tributary of the famous Rhine River. This region, a neighbor of many other German wine regions, lies at the other end of Germany from the capital of Berlin. Nahe ranks seventh in total wine production and vineyard acreage among the thirteen German wine regions. While about 90% of its production is white wine, its red wine production is on the upswing. Its three most important white grapes are Riesling, Mueller-Thurgau, and Silvaner. A mere 2% of Nahe wine is the bottom of the line Landwein. Approximately three quarters of the local wine is medium quality QbA wine, wine that permits chaptalization, which is adding sugar to the fermenting mix. The remainder is higher quality QmP wine which interdicts this somewhat controversial process.

Bingen is a city of some twenty five thousand people in the Rhine castle country. It developed largely because the local Nahe-Rhine river intersection was unnavigable. It was also the crossroads of Roman trade routes. Bingen has been and still is a commercial wine center. If you are in the neighborhood check out the annual Winzerfest in late August and early September. Other attractions include the Basilika St. Martin built at the end of the Eighth Century replacing a Roman temple and the Rochuskapelle (St. Roch chapel). You may want to stay at the luxurious Johann Lafer’s Stromburg hotel and eat at its restaurants, one of which has a wine list featuring some 200 Nahe wines. To get there you drive through the beautiful Binger Wald (Bingen Forest).

Before reviewing the Nahe wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are a few suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start with Ochsenschwanzsuppe (Ox-Tail Soup). For your second course enjoy Spansau (Roast Suckling Pig), an autumn dish. For dessert indulge yourself with Frittierter Vanille-Pudding mit Nougat und Mangosauce (Fried Vanilla Pudding with Nougat and Mango Sauce).

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed Prinz Salm Schloss Wallhausen Riesling Kabinett 2006 9.5% alcohol about $18.50

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. Here is an excellent opportunity to discover the Rieslings of Nahe. The first mention of this acclaimed winery was in the year 1200! It has remained in the Salm family’s hands to this day, making it the oldest, continuously family-owned estate in Germany. The estate produces vibrant Rieslings with lovely aromas of lime, tangerine, and mineral tones. Terrific with pan-seared scallops.

My first pairing was with breaded turkey cutlets, brown rice, and Turkish salad. The wine was lightly sweet, pleasantly acidic, and quite round. This was one fine wine. Frankly, I was tempted to finish the bottle then and there. I didn’t mind the sugar at all, even though this meal did not call for sweet wine. With slightly sweet, homemade plain cookies the wine became more acidic and lost its sweetness.

The next meal consisted of fried chicken liver with green beans. The Riesling was applely and very pleasant. It was lightly acidic but a bit short.

The final meal was a store-bought barbecued chicken breast, potato salad, and Caponata, an Italian eggplant dish including tomatoes, onions, celery, and green olives. This wine was light and in fact feathery, delicate, and subtle. Personally, I am happy to drink a low-alcohol wine. Its acidity increased when paired with the acidic Caponata. It became somewhat sweeter when facing the potato salad.

The first cheese pairing was with an Italian Mozzarella di Bufala, a Mozzarella made from the milk of Water Buffalo. This cheese brought out the wine’s sweetness and feathery quality. This was a rare wine and cheese pairing that I actually liked. The second pairing was with a French Morbier that was starting to smell. The cheese had an aftertaste but the wine remained fine.

Final verdict. This is my second Riesling from the relatively unknown Nahe wine region and the second winner. I’ll be looking for more.

Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten computer and Internet books, but really prefers fine Italian or other wine, with good food and company. He loves teaching computer classes at an Ontario French-language community college. His global wine website www.theworldwidewine.com features a weekly review of $10 wines and new sections writing about and tasting organic and kosher wines. His Italian travel website is www.travelitalytravel.com .
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I Love French Wine and Food – A Red Sancerre

December 28th, 2009

If you are hankering for some fine French wine and food, you should consider the Loire Valley region of central France. You may even find a bargain, and really I hope that you’ll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a red Sancerre wine based on the Pinot Noir grape coming from the eastern part of the Loire Valley.

The Loire is France’s longest river. Of the eleven French wine-growing regions the Loire Valley ranks third in total vineyard acreage. It is subdivided into four regions going from west to east: Nantais, Anjou-Saumur, Touraine, and Central Vineyards, the home of the wine reviewed below. This region’s major white grape is Sauvignon Blanc and major red grape is Pinot Noir.

Sancerre is a medieval hilltop town home to fewer than two thousand residents. The town’s name is synonymous with a white wine. The town may have hosted a temple dedicated to Julius Caesar. Sancerre is proud to have pushed back the British twice during the Hundred Years’ War and to have been a regional command center for the French Resistance in World War II. Sights to see include the Sixteenth Century bell tower Belfry of St. Jean, the Tour des Fiefs, the remains of a feudal chateau built at the end of the Fourteenth Century, and the wine exposition house dating from the Fourteenth to Sixteenth Centuries. You’ll enjoy the medieval streets and fine food and wine.

Before reviewing the Loire wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are a few suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start with Salade de Perdreau Roti (Roasted Partridge Salad). For your second course savor Pot au Feu de Canette (Duckling Stew). And as dessert indulge yourself with Crepe au Grand Marnier (Grand Marnier Crepe).

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed Fournier Sancerre Rouge 2003 12.5% alcohol about $24

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. Red Sancerre is made exclusively from Pinot Noir. These wines are rarely seen in our market because a large portion of them are enjoyed locally. In the Loire, red wines require a warm, consistent growing season to obtain ripeness. In 2003, with the European-wide heatwave, Fournier was able to achieve just that. The wine exhibits classic Pinot aromas and flavors of cheery, underbrush and beetroot. The producer recommends serving this wine, lightly chilled, with bouillabaisse. And now for my review.

My first meal consisted of beef stew and potatoes with a Tunisian hot pepper sauce and Moroccan spiced carrots. The wine was earthy and somewhat powerful tasting of black cherries and tobacco. This Pinot Noir had no trouble dealing with the meat’s spicy sauce.

The second meal was an Atlantic salmon marinated in a commercial Italian-style grill sauce. The fish was accompanied by potatoes roasted in chicken fat. The wine was round and earthy, and relatively long. There was some aftertaste.

The final pairing involved a purchased barbecued chicken breast, once again potatoes roasted in chicken fat, and caponata, Italian style eggplant with tomatoes, garlic, and olives. Quite surprisingly the wine was plummy. The combination was excellent, bringing out the fruit in the wine.

Something happened and I did not get to taste this wine with cheese. As you may be aware, I am not usually all that happy with wine and cheese pairings. Anyway, my apologies and at least for the time being I plan to go back to wine and cheese tastings.

Final verdict. I think that the wine was overpriced. To my way of thinking a wine priced in the mid-twenties it should have been excellent more than once out of three tastings. I definitely won’t buy it again just to try the wine and cheese pairings. And it is simply impossible to get authentic Bouillabaisse this far from Marseille.

Levi Reiss authored or co-authored ten computers and Internet books, but prefers drinking fine German, Italian, or other wine with the right foods and people. He teaches computers at an Ontario French-language community college. His global wine website www.theworldwidewine.com features a weekly review of $10 wines and new sections writing about and tasting organic and kosher wines. Visit his Italian travel website www.travelitalytravel.com.
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I Love German Wine and Food – a Pfalz Pinot Noir

December 21st, 2009

If you are hankering for fine German wine and food, you should consider the Pfalz region of southwestern Germany. You may find a bargain, and I really hope that you’ll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a local Pinot Noir.

The Pfalz is a narrow region about 80 kilometers long, close to the river Rhine. The Church owned the best vineyards until Napoleon redistributed them. There are about 25,000 vineyards whose average size is less than a hectare (about 2.5 acres). Given their small plots, most vineyard owners work elsewhere to make a living. While Pfalz was once the number one German wine producing region, it now ranks number two in both total wine production and vineyard acreage behind its northern neighbor, Rheinhessen. In the Pfalz, sometimes called the Tuscany of Germany, temperatures often climb into the mid ninety degrees Fahrenheit (mid thirty degrees Centigrade) and many farmers raise “southern” crops such as figs and lemons.

About 80% of Pfalz wine is white. The most widely grown grape varieties are the German developed hybrid Mueller Thurgau, and the generally higher quality Riesling. Local red grape varieties include Portugieser and to a lesser extent Pinot Noir, better known by its German name, Spaetburgunder. About 10% of Pfalz wine is classified as basic table wine, over 70% as middle of the road QbA wine, and the remainder is classified as higher quality QmP wine.

The German Wine Road crosses the Pfalz region. Virtually anywhere you go on this road you can find something worth seeing, worth tasting, and I daresay worth eating. The city of Neustadt and its suburbs are close to the halfway point of this road. Every October they host the Deutsches Weinlesefest (German Wine Harvest Festival) with many, many floats and a German Wine Queen. Make sure that you visit the Marktplatz (market square) on market days (Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday) when local farmers sell their produce. Take a look at the square’s many Baroque and Renaissance buildings and its Gothic church whose north tower boasts the largest cast-iron bell in the world. If you’re in good shape, climb the south tower and enjoy the view.

You may find it more difficult to get a glimpse of the Elwetritsche, a fabled half bird, half human creatures of the Pfalz forest. You can ride through the forest on the Kuckucksbaehnel (Steam Train) from the Eisenbahn Museum (Railroad Museum) behind the main train station. You’ll have to plan in advance because these trains run every other Sunday during the season. Finish your tour of Neustadt’s Old Town with a few medieval lanes where you will probably want to eat, drink, and shop.

Before reviewing the Pfalz wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are a few suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start with Grumbeersupp (Potato Soup). For your second course enjoy Gequellde mit Lewwerworscht (Cooked Potatoes with Liver Sausage). For dessert indulge yourself with Schwarzwaelder Torte (Black Forest Cake, Chocolate Cake with Whipped Cream and Cherries).

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed Lorch Pinot Noir Classic 2004 13.5% alcohol about $14

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. This Pinot Noir displays pretty cherry, plum and earth tones. It is dry, light-bodied with a nice, lingering fruit/acid finish. This charming wine’s hint of tannin is softened by the lemon, while the cucumber and dill match the Pinot’s earthier tendencies.

My first pairing was with slow cooked meatballs and potatoes, accompanied by a somewhat spicy red pepper, tomato, and garlic “salsa”. This wine was round and long but not imposing. It was moderately acidic and held up well to the spices. Perhaps surprisingly I tasted some bubble gum. No it wasn’t a Beaujolais Nouveau. I like to think that I know when I’m drinking a Pinot Noir, but such wasn’t the case here. I finished the meal with a top-of-the-line chocolate mousse cake but the combination wasn’t really good. The cake and the wine didn’t meld.

My next trial involved a home made barbecued chicken that had marinated in a sweet and sour Thai sauce. The side dish was a specialty of the local supermarket, roasted potatoes cooked in chicken fat. Yummy. I found the wine nicely acidic and quite fruity. The wine’s fruit was a good match for the fruit in the marinade. On the other hand, I thought that the potatoes would bring out the earthiness of the Pinot Noir. Such was not to be.

The final meal included store bought barbecued spare ribs, rice, and saut

Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten computer and Internet books, but between you and me, he prefers fine Italian or other wine, accompanied by the right foods and good company. He knows what dieting is, and is glad that for the time being he can eat and drink what he wants, in moderation. He loves teaching computer classes at an Ontario French-language community college. Visit his new wine, diet, health, and nutrition website www.wineinyourdiet.com and his global wine website www.theworldwidewine.com.
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I Love French Wine and Food – A Southwestern Red Blend

December 21st, 2009

If you are in the market for fine French wine and food, why don’t you consider the up and coming wine region of southwestern France? You may even find a bargain. I hope that you’ll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a local red wine based on the indigenous Negrette and the international Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah grapes.

Among France’s eleven wine-growing regions the South-west ranks sixth in acreage. Surprisingly enough this is the first wine that we have reviewed from this region. The most famous alcoholic beverage produced in this beautiful region is Armagnac that many prefer to Cognac. Parts of this region neighbor Bordeaux so don’t be surprised that some of the local wines are quite good, and yet more moderately priced than many of its world-famous neighbor’s offerings.

If you are visiting southwestern France, and you really should, make sure to stop by the village of Bergerac that was not the home of the famous Cyrano de Bergerac who actually lived in Paris in the first half of the Seventeenth Century. The town is beautiful. Market days are Wednesday and Saturday. You can take a guided walking tour of the old city and cruise the Dordogne River from Easter to October. The Cloitre des Recollets was a convent and now hosts a wine business. Go a few miles south to the Chateau de Monbazillac. Their sweet wine is famous but fairly expensive.

Before reviewing the southwestern wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are some suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start with Foie Gras Frais avec Myrtille (Fresh Duck Liver in a Berry Sauce). For your second course savor Piperade Basquaise au Jambon (Eggs, Tomatos, Green Peppers, Onions, and Ham). And for dessert indulge yourself with Gateau Basque (Lemon Shortbread, Baker’s Cream, and Tart Cherry Jam.)

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed La Foret Royale 2004 13% about $13.50 (Appelation Fronton Controle)

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. La Foret is a blend of the indigenous Negrette (45%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), and Syrah (25%). The wine goes through fruit-enhancing and tannin-mellowing micro-oxygenation and acid-softening malolactic fermentation. The resulting wine is full of flavors and aromas, including raspberry, blackberry, cassis, dark chocolate, licorice, and a hint of tar. Serve it with grilled steaks, backribs, or gourmet sausages. And now for the review.

My first meal consisted of commercially prepared beef spare ribs, spicy Moroccan carrots, and potatoes roasted in chicken fat. The meat was seasoned with Tunisian Harissa, a very spicy hot-pepper sauce. This was a great combination. The tannins melted in my mouth. I tasted black cherries, chocolate, and a lot of tobacco. The wine was robust and mouth filling. It held up both to the fat and the strong spices.

The next meal included meatballs with harissa, rice, and green beans. This wine was round and moderately long. The chocolate and tobacco tastes were fairly powerful.

The final meal was a commercially prepared barbecued chicken with a paprika-covered shin and store bought potato salad. The wine was a good antidote to the fat. Once again the chocolate taste was predominant.

The first cheese pairing was with an Emmenthaler (Swiss Cheese). The wine handled the pairing nicely. It was quite round and strong. On the other hand I barely tasted the cheese. And a goat’s milk cheese really denatured this wine.

Final verdict. This wine is a winner. I expect to come back to southwestern France for more wines.

Levi Reiss has authored ten computer and Internet books, but between you and me, he prefers fine Italian or other wine, accompanied by the right foods and good company. He loves teaching computer classes at an Ontario French-language community college. His global wine website www.theworldwidewine.com features a weekly review of $10 wines. His Italian travel website is www.travelitalytravel.com .
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I Love German Wine and Food – a Mittlerhein Reisling

December 20th, 2009

If you are looking for fine German wine and food, consider the Mittelrhein region of southwestern Germany. You may find a bargain, and I hope that you’ll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a local Riesling Kabinett.

The Mittelrhein is castle country. It starts out just south of the former West German capital of Bonn and then follows the Rhein River for about 60 miles (100 kilometers). The area was named a World Cultural Heritage site in 2002. It contains some of Germany’s steepest vineyards, in effect some of the steepest vineyards in the world. This is a problem; the shortage of farm workers who are willing to break their backs on these slopes is probably the major reason that Mittelrhein vineyard acreage has shrunk almost by half in the last forty years. This region now ranks 11th out of the 13 German wine regions for vineyard area and 12th for total wine production. About three quarters of its wine is Riesling, quite a good sign. In fact, after the Rheingau region, the Mittelrhein has the highest percentage of Riesling in Germany. Less than 2% of Mittelrhein wine is low-quality table wine, almost 60% medium-quality QbA wine, and almost 40% higher-quality QmP wine. The yield per acre is also one of the lowest in Germany, which is also a good sign.

Koblenz, population slightly over one hundred thousand, is a real river town. It is situated on both banks of the Rhine River and on the Moselle River. The rivers’ meeting point is known as the Deutsches Eck (German Corner). Besides these two magnificent rivers there are three mountain ranges and a third river, the Lahn nearby. The name Koblenz means confluence or merging rivers.

Koblenz recently celebrated its two-thousandth anniversary. During the Middle Ages Koblenz took advantage of its strategic location to control both Rhine and Mosel trade. Most of the city is situated on the west bank of the Rhine. On the east bank, facing the city, is Festung Ehrenbreitstein, Europe’s largest fortress after Gibraltar. This fortress sits on a mountain four hundred feet above the river. It’s hardly surprising that the site has been fortified for more than three thousand years. We are happy that Festung Ehrenbreitstein was not destroyed as it passed from one country to another during many wars. It now hosts a youth hostel and a museum.

In the old town make sure to see the Pfaffendorfer Bridge, the Weindorf, a wine village constructed in the 1920s for a giant German wine exhibition, the Rheinanlagen (Rhein Gardens), a 6 mile (10 kilometer) river promenade, and the mid-Ninth Century St. Kastor Kirche (St. Castor Church) which, shortly after its foundation, hosted talks for the Treaty of Verdun that divided Charlemagne’s empire into present-day Germany and France. The Schaengel is a famous statue of a boy who spits water.

Before we review the Mittelrhein wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are some suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start with Hinkelsdreck (Chicken Liver Pate). For your second course enjoy Wildschwein Sauerbraten (Wild Boar Sauerbraten-Marinated Meat). As a dessert indulge yourself with Feigenmus (Fig Puree).

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed Toni Jost Riesling Kabinett 2004 9.5% alcohol about $20

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. From the little-known-in-our-market Mittelrhein region comes this superb Riesling. There is pronounced varietal character here with special emphasis on peach, apricot and floral notes (particularly lilac). It is off-dry with very good fruit notes surrounded by crisp acid tones. Light- to medium-bodied, this long-finishing wine would be an excellent match for Thai spicy noodle dishes, crab legs or scallops in a saffron cream sauce.

My first tasting included a commercial chicken pot pie perked up by a spicy Jalapeno-based salsa. The wine was quite acidic and lemony with some taste of apple as well. The wine was very flavorful; a little bit went a long way. Frankly this Riesling was too good for such a pedestrian meal. Dessert was a slice of top of the line chocolate mousse cake that suffered somewhat by being too sweet. The cake was too sweet for the wine. I had the feeling that the wine and the cake were fighting. In the end the wine emerged as the winner; it was only a little injured.

My next trial involved a home made barbecued chicken marinated in a sweet and sour Thai sauce. The side dish was a specialty of the local supermarket, roasted potatoes cooked in chicken fat, reheated in foil on the barbecue. Yummy. To complete the meal I barbecued Portabello mushrooms and slices of red pepper. The whole meal was a great match for the Reisling. The wine was light (but far from weak), refreshing, and pleasantly acidic. I loved the meat’s grease – I removed most but not all of the skin. And I loved the way the wine cut the meat’s grease. The Riesling’s fruit intensified when matched with the sweet barbecued red pepper. I tasted a lot of apple and lemon.

The final meal consisted of an omelet with tasty local Asiago cheese, green and black Greek olives, and grape tomatoes. The wine had a gossamer quality and an excellent balance of acidity, sugar, and fruit, mostly lemon. That was the wine. It overwhelmed the omelet, which essentially added nothing to the mix in spite of the relatively strong cheese. Not surprisingly the wine did better with the acidic grape tomatoes than with the salty olives. As is my policy, I never blame the wine for an unorthodox food pairing that just doesn’t make it. I finished the meal with a high-quality but oversweet chocolate ice-cream bar. The sugar weakened the wine and made it taste sour. But I waited a few minutes and finished the final sips without any food. And this wine was as good as it had ever been.

I paired this wine with two imported cheeses, a German Edam and a French Camembert. The Edam was soft and buttery. In its presence the Riesling was pleasantly acidic with a lot of fruit. The French Camembert was probably past its prime. At the first sip, the Riesling seemed a bit weaker than in previous tastings, but later on the wine managed to hold its own.

Final verdict. I am really a fan of this wine and plan to buy it again. However, I won’t want to waste its power and delicacy on pairing it with the wrong foods.

Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but between you and me, he prefers drinking fine German, Italian, or other wine, accompanied by the right foods and the right people. He knows what dieting is, and is glad that for the time being he can eat and drink what he wants, in moderation. He teaches various classes in computers at an Ontario French-language community college. Visit his new wine, diet, health, and nutrition website www.wineinyourdiet.com and his Italian travel website www.travelitalytravel.com .
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I Love German Wine and Food – a Riesling From the Mosel

December 19th, 2009

If you hankering for fine German wine and food, why not consider the Mosel region of central western Germany on the border of Luxembourg? While I can’t guarantee that you’ll find a bargain, I know you’ll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a local white Riesling tasted with several meals and paired with imported cheeses.

The Mosel Valley has long been considered one of the most beautiful river valleys in the world. This region, formerly known as Mosel-Saar-Ruwer in honor of its three rivers, is proud of its Riesling wine. Some of the greatest Rieslings in Germany and in fact in the entire world come from the Mosel Valley. Experts can often identify Mosel Rieslings because of the slate in the local soil, which may impart a taste of flint. Mosel vineyard slopes are among the steepest in the wine-producing world, sometimes attaining 70 degrees. The soil is so precious that every spring local workers lug pails of soil up these slopes. This arduous activity temporarily reverses the effect of the rains that wash the soil down every winter.

Mosel is fifth among the thirteen German wine regions with respect to both vineyard acreage and total wine production. Slightly more than three quarters of the wine produced here is QbA and somewhat less than one quarter is higher quality QmP wine. Only one percent is table wine. More than half of all Mosel wine is Riesling. The German hybrid Mueller-Thurgau represents about 20% of the wine production. In third place is the historic variety Elbing that dates back to Roman times and is the major grape variety in the neighboring country of Luxembourg. Only about 2% of Mosel wine is red.

Basically the Mosel Valley runs from Koblenz not far from Germany’s former capital Bonn to the city of Trier that sits very close to the border. These two cities are linked by the Mosel Weinstrasse (Mosel Wine Road) which is about 140 miles (224 kilometers) long on the eastern side of the river and somewhat less on the western side. Of course, you could take the autobahn to get between Koblenz and Trier at breakneck speed. If you do, you’ll miss the interesting little towns and vineyards along the way.

Bernkastel-Kues is a town of about eight thousand that sits astride the Mosel River with Bernkastel on the east bank and Kues on the west bank. Bernkastel is about seven hundred years old but the area itself was first inhabited thousands of years ago. Bernkastel’s medieval town square is lovely with numerous half-timbered houses, some of which were built in the Fifteenth Century. St. Michaelsbrunnen (St. Michael’s Fountain) is right on the square and other historic fountains are nearby. Make sure to see the ruins of Burgruine Landshut (Castle of Landshut) for an excellent view of the city and surrounding vineyards. The first weekend of September marks the annual Weinfest der Mittelmosel (Wine Festival of the Middle Moselle River Valley) that includes a festive procession and a great fireworks display.

Bernkastel is home to the Bernkasteler Doctor vineyard producing one of Germany’s most expensive wines. According to popular legend a Fourteenth Century Archbishop of Trier was too sick to be helped by traditional medicine. He tasted some of the local wine, recovered, and said, “The best doctor grows in this vineyard in Bernkastel.” Due to questionable changes in German wine laws wine bottles labeled Bernkasteler Doctor may now be made by thirteen producers instead of three as previously. Let the buyer beware.

Kues was home to the Fifteenth Century theologian and philosopher Nikolaus Casanus, founder of the St.-Nikolaus-Hospital that operates a wine estate and the Mosel-Weinmuseum (Mosel Wine Museum). The museum’s library is open for tours and its wine cellar is open for tastings. Several local winemakers hold Tage der offenen Weinkeller (Open wine cellar days) in which they present and sell their wine in their own wine cellars.

Before we review the Mosel wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are some suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start with Gaensestopfleher (Foie Gras). For your second course enjoy Entenbrust an Brombeerjus (Duck Breast in Blackberry Juice). And for dessert indulge yourself with Schokoladencreme (Chocolate Mousse).

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed St. Urbans-Hof Riesling Kabinett 2005 8.6% alcohol about $20.00

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. The 2005 Piesporter Goldtroepfchen Riesling Kabinett – still manages to show true Kabinett delicacy on the palate, which Weis attributes in part to earlier harvest and frankly in part to this site’s compatibility with higher yields. Skin contact and minimal clarification in the cellar help compensate for any danger of dilution. (Lower-yielding parcels nowadays must result in Spaetlese or Auslese.) Pineapple, grapefruit, black currant, and Golden Delicious apple dominate the proceedings, suffused with an aura of smoky, crushed stone, and mouthwatering acidity. This is once again a ‘little’ Mosel archetype and a terrific value … And now for the review.

Before the meal I thought to taste this wine on its own. It was delicately acidic and palate cleansing with light bubbles. Then I started with sweet and sour purchased barbecued chicken wings. The wine was fine with light acidity. Now I was ready to begin, so to speak. My initial pairing involved a commercial barbecued chicken leg with the paprika-coated skin, potatoes roasted in chicken fat, and some disappointing pickle slices. The wine’s fruit intensified to meet the chicken’s fat. This Riesling was quite round when dealing with the melt-in-your-mouth potatoes.

The next meal was an omelet with a local Provolone cheese and Turkish salad. The wine was round, thick, and pleasantly sweet. The word feathery came to mind. It sort of floated especially after the Turkish salad. Then I savored a high-quality, chocolate-coated vanilla ice cream bar. The wine retained its acidity; it was almost a good match.

The final meal was more of a snack. I ate some packaged Texas corn fritters with generous dollops of 14% sour cream. The wine was bold, sweet, and pleasantly acidic but frankly wasted on such plebian fare. I did finish the bottle with home made barbecued chicken to which the wine did honor. Even though the barbecue sauce wasn’t sweet the combination was excellent.

The initial cheese pairing was with a Dutch Edam that was nutty, a bit fatty, and somewhat sour. The Riesling’s sweetness seemed to step up a notch and it displayed tingling acidity. It’s been a long time since I enjoyed a wine and cheese pairing this much. Then I went to a mild-tasting Italian Friulano. The wine was acidic with sugar in the background.

Final verdict. This Riesling is a winner. I wouldn’t hesitate to pair it with a top of the line German poultry dish, the kind that you pay big bucks for over there. At 8.9% this is one of the least alcoholic wines that I have tasted in a long, long time. And you know what, I didn’t miss it a bit.

In his younger days Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten computer and Internet books. Now he prefers drinking fine Italian, German, or other wine, accompanied by the right foods and the right people. He knows what dieting is, and is glad that for the time being he can eat and drink what he wants, in moderation. He loves teaching various and sundry computer classes at an Ontario French-language community college. Visit his new wine, diet, health, and nutrition website www.wineinyourdiet.com and his Italian wine website www.theitalianwineconnection.com.
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